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奢华酒店的骑马服务《金融时报》双语

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奢华酒店的骑马服务《金融时报》双语
       Abdeslam Bennani Smires nudges his grey Arab-Barb forwards into a canter, and then a gallop. I follow suit and soon both horses are striding forward, a cloud of red dust billowing at their hooves. We ride up a steep track flanked by a hedge of prickly pear, the plump, orange fruit looking inviting in the dry heat. To the south, the Atlas mountains rise as far as the eye can see, crowned by the snowy summit of Toubkal, north Africa’s highest peak.
       贝纳尼•斯米雷斯(Abdeslam Bennani Smires)轻拍了一下自己的灰色阿拉伯-柏布马(Arab-Barb),先让它慢跑起来,然后纵马疾驰。我也依葫芦画瓢,很快两匹马都向前飞奔起来,马蹄过后,翻起滚滚红尘。我俩沿着一条陡路往上疾奔,路两旁种着仙人球以及果实累累的橙色水果,在烈日炎炎下显得那么些诱人可爱。放眼往南看,高耸的阿特拉斯山脉(Atlas)绵延千里,山顶被白雪皑皑的托布卡尔山(Toubkal)所覆盖,它也是北非的最高峰。
       Our first stop is in a dusty Berber outpost where our arrival draws a 30-strong crowd of wide-eyed children and villagers. We’re greeted with warmth and enthusiasm – our visit, it appears, is the most exciting to happen locally since the king came to a neighbouring village a few years ago. We dismount and are led through a wooden door to a tiny courtyard, past a cow and into the lounge of a traditional Berber house. The room is bare, save for a few blankets, a portrait of Mohammed VI and an electricity socket sprouting a spidery mess of wires.
       我俩的第一个停靠点是尘土飞扬的柏柏尔人(Berber)村庄,抵达后,吸引了足足30位孩子与村民的围观,他们都好奇地盯着我我们看。我们在此受到了热情款待——我们的到访是自摩洛哥国王几年前莅临附近村庄以来,当地最大的盛事。我们下马后,由当地人领着穿过一道木门,进到一个小院落,从一头奶牛身旁经过后,再进到柏柏尔人传统民居的客厅。房中除了几条毯子、一幅穆罕默德六世(Mohammed VI)的画像以及一个接线如蜘蛛网似的插座外,空无一物。
       We sit cross-legged and chat to our host, a beaming matriarch with 11 children, who serves us syrupy mint tea and flat bread straight from the smoking oven, with butter churned that morning.
       我们盘腿而坐,与兴高采烈的女主人闲聊开来,她是11个孩子的母亲,给我们喝甜薄荷茶,然后径直从熏炉上取出大饼招待我们,并用早上刚炼好的黄油款待我们。
       It’s a far cry from where I woke up, the Selman Hotel on the outskirts of Marrakech, one of five luxury hotels to open in the city in the past 12 months (with six more due to open soon). Given that competition, it can only help to have a theme, or unique selling point, and – besides its opulent spa and water garden – the Selman’s is its horses. Guests entering the hotel are greeted by a statue of a rearing bronze stallion and the equine motif continues throughout.
       这与我当晚入住的塞尔曼酒店(Selman Hotel)大相径庭,它位于马拉喀什(Marrakech)郊区,是这座城市过去12个月里所开设的五家豪华酒店中的一家(还有六家很快也会开张)。由于市场竞争激烈,只有突显特色(即独特的卖点)方能立于不败之地。塞尔曼酒店除了豪华温泉水疗与水景园外,最大的特色就是骑马旅游服务。入住酒店的嘉宾一进酒店,立马就可看到一尊后腿站立的青铜马雕塑,而整个入住期间,始终围绕着马的主题做文章。
       Horses are depicted in numerous oil paintings, while more star in the 4ft-high black and white photographs lining the long, dark corridor to my room (one of 56). Outside is a stable block and four paddocks created by the French designer Jacques Garcia (whose work includes numerous five-star hotels, such as the Victor in Miami and the Ritz in Paris). It is home to eight prize Arabian stallions, with flared nostrils, wide eyes and distinctive high tails. These are prized creatures – the most expensive among them, a grey called Sandhiran, is worth around €1m.
       马是众多油画作品的刻画对象,而在通往我入住房间的黑色长廊两旁,张挂着很多四英尺高的黑白照片,马匹就是其主角(总共有56幅之多)。而客房外就有一座马房以及四个小围场子,它由法国设计师雅克•加西亚设计(Jacques Garcia,他的作品遍布许多五星级酒店,如迈阿密维克多酒店(Victor in Miami)与巴黎丽思酒店(Ritz in Paris))。这儿是八匹夺奖无数的阿拉伯种马的大本营,它们的鼻孔张开、大眼睛、具有特别的高尾巴。这些都是获奖无数的良种马——其中最昂贵的是一匹叫Sandhiran的灰色宝马,价值约100万欧元。
       Horses are an obsession of the Selman’s owner, Abdeslam Bennani Smires, a 29-year-old graduate of the prestigious Lausanne Hotel School, a collector of thoroughbreds and a former member of the Moroccan show jumping team. Unfortunately, so precious and skittish are the Arabians that they can never be ridden: these beasts are just for show. Instead, guests are invited to head into the hills astride one of the hotel’s Arab-Barb horses for what must rank as one of the most extravagant riding trips available anywhere.
       马匹是塞尔曼酒店老板贝纳尼•斯米雷斯的心爱之物,他今年29岁,毕业于久负盛名的洛桑酒店管理学院(Lausanne Hotel School),喜欢收藏纯种良马,同时也是摩洛哥前马术国家队队员。遗憾的是,这些阿拉伯纯种马既珍贵无比、又容易受惊,所以从未被人骑过,它们只是充作展览之用。相反,住店者可以骑着酒店养的阿拉伯-柏布马去“跋山涉水”,它完全可以算作全世界最奢侈的骑马旅行项目。
       We had begun around 9.30am in the hills near the Ourika Valley, a 45-minute drive from Marrakech, with Bennani Smires acting as my guide. After our stop for tea, we ride on to a rocky outcrop, then along a path lined with argan bushes, whose oil-rich seeds are coveted by local farmers and goats alike.
       我们于上午9:30左右开始我们的骑行旅程,地点就在奥里卡山谷(Ourika Valley,骑马到马拉喀什约45分钟)附近的山脉,贝纳尼•斯米雷斯充当我们的向导。停下来喝完茶后,我们继续旅程,到达一片露出地面的岩层处,然后沿着一条两旁密布坚果树的小道继续骑行,坚果树的种子含油丰富,是当地农民与羊群的最爱。
       About four hours after setting off, we round a corner to find a shepherd boy frozen to the spot staring down the hill, to where a huge white tent is flapping in the breeze. In front of it, the Selman’s head butler stands, one hand behind his back, with a tray of champagne at the ready.
       骑行四个小时后,我们拐过一道弯,看到一位牧羊娃驻足在那里,出神地凝望山下,一顶白色大帐篷正迎着微风飘舞。在帐篷前站着塞尔曼酒店的大管家,他一只手放在身后,另一只手端着香槟酒托盘等候着我们。
       Closer inspection reveals more extravagance – with a thick red carpet, leather lounging chairs, Berber wooden chests and a selection of coffee table books (solicitously left open at pictures of horses), the tent has clearly been conceived as a canvas outpost of the hotel, miraculously transported to this remote hillside. It even has its own flushable porcelain toilet.
       再走近一看,看到的是更为奢侈的布置——地上铺了厚厚的红地毯、搁放了几张皮躺椅、柏柏尔人的木柜子以及精挑细选的大型画册(印有马匹照片的页面有意翻开)。很显然,帐篷被当作了酒店的“简易前哨”,被神奇地挪至这个偏僻的山坡上。帐篷甚至还配备了可冲洗陶瓷卫生间。
       To the rear is a mess tent where the hotel’s French head chef, Ludovic Gomiero, has prepared a salad of candied pumpkin, a tagine of chicken and olives, and a raspberry parfait with an intense poppy seed tuile.
       帐篷后边则是另一顶乱糟糟的帐篷,酒店的法国大厨鲁多维奇•戈米耶罗(Ludovic Gomiero)已经准备好了南瓜蜜枣沙拉、陶锅炖鸡肉和橄榄、以及带有浓郁罂粟籽香的树莓冻糕。
       Lunch ends with more sweet mint tea and handmade macaroons, before a long canter across recently harvested fields brings us back to our starting point. Post-ride cocktails are waiting – this is an almost comically indulgent way to ride, but we are not the only ones to be pampered. As we finish our drinks, the horses are loaded into boxes, to be taken back to the hotel, where they’ll take a shower before relaxing in an equine solarium.
       午餐最后上的是甜薄荷茶以及手工制作的蛋白杏仁饼干,然后我们慢慢策马经过一片刚收割完的田地,再次回到起点处。款待我们的是解乏的鸡尾酒——这样骑马快意无比、汪洋恣肆,但享受如此尊贵服务的并不仅仅只是我们。畅饮完后,马被装进专用箱中,运回酒店,它们先是洗澡,然后再享受日光浴。
       Susannah Osborne was a guest of Lawrence of Morocco ( www.lawrenceofmorocco.com), which offers a three-night stay at the Selman from £665 per person, including flights from London and transfers. The one-day Selman Signature Riding Journey costs from £700 per person
       苏珊娜•奥斯本是Lawrence of Morocco旅行社(网址:www.lawrenceofmorocco.com)旅客,旅行社的服务包括入住塞尔曼酒店三晚,每位客户665英镑,其中包含伦敦至摩洛哥的机票以及相应的转机费用。塞尔马酒店的一日特色骑马行费用是每位旅客起价700英镑。
        
       译者:常和
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